Taking the overnight train after using so many buses in so many different countries was a very comfortable and fun experience. Despite the institutional paint colours, the cabin was spacious with four comfortable bunks and air conditioning. We also lucked out with our bunk mates, two friendly German medical students who were quick with a smile and fun to talk to while the train chugged away to our next destination – the rolling hills in northern Vietnam.
We arrived in Lao Cai early morning and were driven by van for the 1 hour climb through a winding route that led to the picturesque village of Sapa. We would stay one night while working that day to bring our trekking adventures to life. Our guesthouse (Luong Thuy Family Guesthouse) was more what we had expected – friendly service, cool little rooftop restaurant and amazing view of the emerald-green rice paddies covering the hills, a distinctive feature of Sapa.
We perused the streets for a tasty and affordable breakfast and settled on the White Lotus hotel buffet, a simple decision that led to an incredible next four days. While sipping away on our coffee we noticed that the front desk guy was very friendly, always smiling and offering advice to guests so we decided to approach him about trekking options. We immediately took a liking to Phi and after his careful listening he laid out a great plan at a great price that would see him act as our guide over the next four days and three nights of homestays with villagers in the surrounding mountains. With all of our “hard work” already completed during breakfast we took advantage of the rest of the day to explore Sapa’s colourful markets and people.
The most visible ethnic group in Sapa are certainly the Black Hmong wearing their distinctive dark clothing with detailed embroidery, amazing silver jewellery and woven baskets carrying food for market or souvenirs for tourists. They are a very, very persistent group who will follow foreigners all around town if given even the slightest opening. After all of our traveling it really wasn’t a problem for us, but it became quite hilarious to watch the Hmong waiting just outside hotel lobbies for the unwitting wide-eyed tourists to emerge.
After lunch, we took a walk down to Cat-Cat village (Black Hmong) to see the sights and the small waterfall. It was a reasonably long descent and given the option to ride back up the mountain on motorcycle for about a dollar, we eagerly hopped on board. Patricia’s driver was a real speed demon and although she was thrilled (mostly by arriving in one piece) it is likely to have been a once in a lifetime event for her. One dollar well spent!
In celebration of still being very alive, we grabbed a set menu on a patio with local Lao Cai beer to wash it down.
The next morning we arose eager to begin the trek and enjoyed one last look over the valley from the guesthouse restaurant. Nice breakfast spot!
After meeting with Phi and setting out on the winding dirt trail, the first trickle of sweat began, slowly turning into a waterfall that didn’t stop for the next four days! Seriously, this was the most we’ve ever sweat in our lives. Fortunately the fantastic views and local experience that Phi provided had us entertained and amazed throughout. We sometimes had local company on our walks and as we made our way along we passed by the many stages of development of their colourful hemp-based homemade clothes.
Experiencing the daily happenings of life around each bend was thrilling – it was definitely in our best interest to clear the trail occasionally for the local children and their oversized transportation. In their younger years the kids are responsible for taking care of the buffalo, an incredible sight to see as they have their way with the big beasts.
We spent each of the three nights with a different local family from various ethnic groupings found in the mountainous north of Vietnam. Each was incredibly generous in their hospitality and in their sharing of copious amounts of rice wine during and after each special dinner. The first night was spent with Mo’s family in Ta Van village (Dzay ethnic group). At the end of our trekking day we headed down to the river for an amazing swimming session and relaxation station on the rocks. So refreshing!
That night after dinner and the plentiful rice wine, we trudged off to the Bamboo bar co-owned by a Dutch man and local Vietnamese lady who had done a nice job in setting up the atmosphere and stellar background music. We met their two young staff who the owners not only provide with work, but also sponsor in school in the hopes of helping them and their families get ahead in life.
Our sleeping accommodations were usually mattresses with bug nets laid out on the top floor of a wooden house built on stilts, with the family living on the main floor, their rooms separated by curtains. When it comes time for a family to build a house, the whole community will pitch in and help over the years to complete the construction.
Another feature of the adventure that made it memorable was participating in chores with the homestay families. They live a simple life, but exude happiness with a strong sense of family and community - very inspirational in their perspectives.
Patricia turned out to be pretty adept in a rural kitchen and soon learned how to make homemade spring rolls, stir frys and soups – always over the fire. Although language was a barrier at times, the offer of assistance was universally welcomed and Ben jumped in to help with the chore of removing corn from cob for pig feed. Unfortunately his hands were unused to village work and the ladies young and old had a good laugh at the blisters he endured throughout the process. Nice try city boy!
Day two saw us trek by more incredible scenery of rice terraces and mountains as we descended to the village of Ban Ho, where we would stay with Quoc’s family for the night (Tay ethnic group). Remembering the feeling of refreshment we felt the day before, we asked Phi about a swimming spot nearby. He brought us to near the local waterfall where a natural rock pool provided protection from the fast moving current and also great opportunities for cliff jumping. It was a very picturesque spot.
On day three we trundled through a village with the ladies of the area who had just been to a town meeting. Hustle and bustle on the streets! We also got to see the local clinic and were given a tour by the welcoming staff of the basic provisions and services provided. This day involved a lot of slipping and sliding in the mud along the steep trails.
Phi spent almost the entire time leading Patricia by the hand while Ben skidded and hopped along behind with the familiar and always well provisioned red backpack. Our valiant sherpa finally blemished his perfect record on a particularly steep section when losing his footing he managed to flip over to protect the clothing attached to the exterior of the backpack and as he slid down the hill he delivered a perfect strike to Patricia’s feet. She was bowled over and the two came to a slimey stop. Fortunately both clothing and trekkers were unharmed during the making of this episode.
Thanh Phu was our final stop that day and a homestay with the Nam family (Xa Pho ethnic group). As swimming was not an option in this village, we spent some time walking through town and then relaxed in the shade in front of their home. The tiny local kids provided some great entertainment as they strolled through proudly with their prize for the day – an enormous jack fruit.
That night we sat down with Phi and the family to quite the spread including the very delicious plantain, fish and sour rice soup. We got the recipe, but making your own sour rice seemed a tad bit dangerous without the right know how. As usual the rice wine began, but this time it really didn’t stop. Our hosts were in a particularly good mood and after polishing off more rice wine that night than water during the day we were presented with the prized “reserve”. This was a brown colour liquid that was derived from a type of root. It is apparently expensive and only comes out on very special occasions. With the host offering for us to stay for weeks and even months with their family without having to pay a thing it was clearly a very special occasion!
How many times we said “Mot-Hai-Ba….ZO!” (1-2-3 Cheers!) that evening was a mystery, until the next morning, when it was clear that it had been said too much. Patricia, Ben and their host, Nam, were feeling the effects and so the next day became a lazy affair. Phi knew that we would be taking the overnight train back to Hanoi that night and so he wisely suggested that everyone take advantage to get some extra napping. And so our last day was spent enjoying the company of our host family and the sounds and sights of the village, watching people perform their crafts.
We can’t thank Phi enough for arranging an experience that was more than we could have ever hoped for.
As the amazing engine of fate would have it, our German friends hopped aboard the same train car as us despite having gone to visit a completely different town on a completely different schedule. We smiled at the coincidence and shared stories from our bunks as the train bumped along back to big city Hanoi.
