Chefchaoen is where we really started to hit our stride in Morocco. In the hotel we met Christina and Borja, an amazing young couple from northern Spain who were on vacation. Christina had been in Morocco quite a few times, and she had made friends and kept in touch with a Berber Nomad from the Sahara desert named Hicham. Hicham was born in the town of Rissani, close to the Algerian border and next to the desert of Erg Chebbi. Being a Nomad he has made all sorts of connections throughout Morocco. The Berbers are one of the original inhabitants of Morocco, a very hearty and formidable group who have survived waves of colonizing countries with much of their culture and traditions intact. Many, like Hicham, are Nomads and you can find them working in the cities or up in the high mountains with their goats to help support their families back in the local village. They are extremely resourceful, friendly and hospitable.
The first night the four of us were invited by Hicham to his friend’s store to meet Youssef, another Berber Nomad. After gratefully accepting our mint tea (the traditional gesture of hospitality throughout the country) Patricia expressed interest in learning how to cook Moroccan food and was treated to a lesson in making a delicious Kefta Tagine.
Later that night Youssef and his friend entertained us with the atmospheric sounds of traditional music played on the tam-tam (double drum) and the Hejuj (a big two stringed guitar). The music is called Ganowa music, which is the music of the nomads of the desert in Morocco originating from the black tribes that were taken as slaves from their home countries (ie: Sudan, Mali) to be sold in Morocco. The beautiful, happy, hand-clapping music is a testament to their resilience. We also had a demonstration on how to put on the long winding scarf used by the desert people for protection against the sun and wind.
On the walk home that night, Ben captured the old Kasbah in the light of the moon.
Our main reason for going to Chefchaouen was to do a trek through the Rif Mountains. Given that good maps of the region are non-existent, and we wanted the experience to include visiting the local villages, Youssef recommended a wonderful guide named Abdul Wahid. He took us walking from Chefchaouen into the mountains filled with wild oregano, thyme, lavender, chamomile, mint, and carob, olive and almond trees. Goats and sheep are abundant, with fresh snow-fed rivers winding their way downhill.
The villages sit on the mountainside amidst terraces for agriculture, and the square mosques with their colourful minarets are incredibly picturesque. On the first day we arrived at the guest house and were astounded – the blue house was so beautiful, decorated in Berber style, with balconies and terraces overlooking the valley.
Upon arriving we were treated to the typical afternoon snack of mint tea from the garden, fresh hobz bread and locally grown olives. We felt like sultans, and Abdul's family working in the guesthouse were very hospitable.
Afterwards we visited the village with Abdul, and made friends with the local children who loved to yell “Ola!” or “Bounjour!” and then run away giggling.
Every night on the trek we were treated to amazing Tangine and fresh bread, and our culinary knowledge of Moroccon food has grown by leaps and bounds. Stay tuned for a post on how to make an authentic nomad-style Tagine ;) During the days we climbed the lush Rif Mountains, and took the opportunity to learn some more Arabic with Abdul. It was a wonderful experience, and unforgettable.
One night was spent in an Auberge in a small village, owned by an eccentric, kind man also by the name of Abdul. He treated us to some home-grown saffron tea, and the cozy hostel with a view of the mountains was a great place to hang out at night with other travelers from Morocco and even from Quebec!
By the end of the trek we had befriended our tour guide Abdul and we had the greatest honour of being invited to attend his sister’s wedding on the night we got back to town. We accepted with delight, and after buying a headscarf for Patricia we put together our nicest outfits - which at best could be described as “shabby-chic” when compared to the elaborate outfits at the wedding. The family and guests were incredibly hospitable. Patricia was even pulled out of her chair by the ladies to learn to dance Arabic style, which she thoroughly enjoyed. In formal Muslim weddings men and women are traditionally assigned separate rooms so that the ladies can dance to music with abandon and the men are free to sit, chat and drink mint tea. The couple to marry enter in very elaborate dress and in a choreographed, slow procession in front of the audience to take their places on thrones, making stylized poses for long stretches without moving. It was a completely unique and personal experience which we were honoured and amazed to attend.
We enjoyed our last day in Chechaouen just strolling the streets and enjoying some fresh corn bread with “cacahouetes” in the plaza.
Then we took the bus with our new Moroccan friend, Hicham, to Fes. The plan was for him to provide us with a tour from Fes to the desert and then to Marrakesh over the course of eight days. As he has worked with a travel agency before and is originally from the desert with nomad connections to boot, he is starting his own travel agency, www.awesomemoroccotours.com. We thought it would be a good opportunity to get off the beaten track. This next journey certainly exceeded our wildest expectations…
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