Gorges and Oases

We awoke early in order to catch a bus from Rissani to our next destination, the Todra Gorge. There was enough time to get a breakfast including fresh orange juice and for Ben to try out Hicham’s friend’s motorbike around town.

We got lucky and on the bus ran into two people from Quebec whom we had met on our trek through the Rif Mountains. Jerome and Michelle were also heading to the Todra Gorge and after seeing the great places that Hicham had arranged they decided to join the tour. The more the merrier!

Not knowing what to expect, we were completely blown away by the oasis leading up to the distinctive narrow gorge! Crumbling mountains surround the lush valley full of palm, fig, apricot and almond trees and all the land is planted with everything from beans to wheat. The foliage attracts many song birds and the running water and shade provides a much needed coolness in the middle of the desert. It was like paradise.





Our hotel was incredible, right in the middle of the oasis, with many areas for hanging out, wonderful food and breakfast on the terrace.

We stayed two nights, and on the second night there was a drum party with lots of singing and dancing.

With such amazing surroundings we could not resist setting out on a few forays into the craggy peaks. Hicham arranged a tour guide to lead us through the oasis and the old Kasbah with its crumbling mud brick walls.

We continued up the mountainside to find some of the local nomads who live a few years at a time in temporary encampments made of piled stone. They earn their living selling goat milk and meat, spending most of their days on the mountain herding the flock. In order to purchase supplies they walk great distances to reach the nearest town. Despite their basic existence, the ladies we encountered were extremely hospitable, offering us mint tea and their own delicious home made bread – similar to a roti with bits of onions, tomatoes and spices. We were happy to sit and talk for a while and Ben entertained them with our binoculars.

Fortunately Ben had his desert turban and was able to blend in with the locals...well, almost...

The walk back through the oasis was stunning, with the birds singing in the palm trees and the setting sun casting a golden light on the surrounding mountainside and old kasbahs.

The next day Hicham arranged for his friend, Redouan, to drive us the rest of the way to Marrakesh in his 1978 mercedes taxi (grand taxi). On one of our stops Ben had a chance to play soccer with some of the local kids.

We stopped for a night in the Dades Gorge and another night in Ouzazarte, also in amazing hotels. The Dades Gorge had incredible rock formations that looked like wax melting into the oasis below - the scenery was so beautiful it had us jumping for joy!

In Ouzazarte we had a tour of the old local Kasbah where we stopped by a Berber pharmacy filled with all kinds of natural herbs and remedies including the famous Argan oil.

As the sun dipped low on the horizon we visited a picturesque old hilltop Kasbah and watched the fading light from its ancient walls and pathways.

On our last day, we drove through the High Atlas, where the tall rounded mountains are dry and dotted with small villages.

It has been amazing to see all the different landscapes of Morocco, from lush, snow capped mountains in the north, arid high mountains in the south, sand dunes in the deserts and oasis-filled gorges. Now we part ways with our Quebec friends as we head to Marrakesh for some big city adventure.

The camel joke from the previous post received a lot of spirited answers! Here's the answer we got in the desert from our giggling Moroccan guide: Open the door, put the camel in, close the door!

Another joke from the desert:
How do you get an elephant into a refrigerator in four moves?